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Did you mean the MAF sensor? I’ve heard this issue is very common on Y-body cars. I used to own an F-body Camaro, and this problem came up often.
Corvette C7 Stalling
- Thread starter Sakura
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Did you mean the MAF sensor? I’ve heard this issue is very common on Y-body cars. I used to own an F-body Camaro, and this problem came up often.
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The codes seems to refer to the MAP sensor, A MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) measures the pressure in the intake manifold, while a MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow) measures the mass of air entering the engine.
I cleaned the MAF Sunday night but I didn't go for a drive, I didn't want to get stuck at a red light. I took a piece of trim out to see if I had a MAP and pretty sure there's one. It was way too hot too proceed in the driveway it was 40C including humidex I was drenched after 15 minutes. This afternoon or evening I'll take out my powerful fan outside and remove more trim pieces to check if I actually have a MAP.
Maybe I should buy a MAF locally to make sure.
Codes were :
P0106
P00C7
P0697
P16F3
P2122
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That is very informative. Looks like the codes are all pointed to map issue. That is a cool LT1 you got there
Brings back old memory with L32 and LS1 engines before they were all replaced with better and more powerful LTs. The old engines had lots of torque from stop, and every stop & go driving almost always causing overheating
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That is very informative. Looks like the codes are all pointed to map issue. That is a cool LT1 you got there
I have a Stingray, not one of the later and better upgrade like Z51, Grandsport or Z06. However the original owner chose every available option he could plus an uncommon package which contains more bells and whistles than any other in that category. If I only knew when I bought it, the biz was finally taking off and 6 months to a year later I could of afforded a Z06. Instead of upgrading to a Z06 I decided to try and save a little more for a Gallardo until I drove one and didn't like it. That's when I made it a quest to get an H, it's the perfect car for me.
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Yesterday I wanted to run and test the cleaned up MAF but the engine stalled and to my surprise the car went entirely dead, no power or light whats so ever! I had to use the emergency door release to get out. The remote didn't even open the rear hatch to reach the battery. I used the key to open the hatch and doing so all the lights of the dash came back on! Then the car started fine, What the hell?
So I replaced the MAP sensor this evening with one I got locally, the one in the mail will be returned it's taking too long. I took over a 2 hour drive, started the car and shut it off and on several times without issues.
Anyway me and the road...
So I replaced the MAP sensor this evening with one I got locally, the one in the mail will be returned it's taking too long. I took over a 2 hour drive, started the car and shut it off and on several times without issues.
Anyway me and the road...
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Man, that pic brings back old memories. Car stalled right in the middle of the road. One time it happened in a sketchy part of town. Not trying to hate but in my case it almost always happened with American cars. Glad that it came back up, could be grounding issue? Maybe it is time to change the battery.
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That's the reason why I was going to test it in the driveway for a while before risking gett stuck somewhere.
There are no signs the battery is starting to fail but I will look at the connections.
It's strange I have an American GM work van which is reliable but the Corvette always has an issue one after the other.
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I think one reason is GM isn’t great at making small components. Bigger cars like work van tend to break less because they’re easier to manufacture. The Corvette is large overall, but it’s squeezed down for aerodynamics, which means it’s packed with tons of small parts.
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I created a new thread however it skipped my first post.
Anyway the problem came back and this time the codes pointed towards the TPS (throttle position sensor) aka : the gas pedal. I thought maybe my aftermarket pedal "booster" from Soler performance was the culprit so I removed it, cleared the codes, the engine was working fine and went for a ride. By the way without the pedal booster this car is such a sluggish drag. Not fun at all.
I did a few shut downs and startups, no issues. I remembered I hadn't checked the battery and found the ground cable a little loose. I put back the booster back on and it seems I have more power than before. Hopefully it was just a ground issue!
Anyway the problem came back and this time the codes pointed towards the TPS (throttle position sensor) aka : the gas pedal. I thought maybe my aftermarket pedal "booster" from Soler performance was the culprit so I removed it, cleared the codes, the engine was working fine and went for a ride. By the way without the pedal booster this car is such a sluggish drag. Not fun at all.
I did a few shut downs and startups, no issues. I remembered I hadn't checked the battery and found the ground cable a little loose. I put back the booster back on and it seems I have more power than before. Hopefully it was just a ground issue!
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I'm using pedal booster for many years now. Very reliable. Just make sure it is made in Greece or European and not fake ones with Chinese parts. This device uses common circuit board which means its lifespan depends on heat. So if the device is exposed to extreme heat for long periods, it will reach its lifespan much quicker. I suppose same with human too, the cells deteriorate faster when exposed to long heat.
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For the Huracan I have the pedalbox+ from DTE. You can also control it using app but I've never used it. I know bluetooth is not easy to hijack but I'm not taking any chances
