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Where is the crank position sensor (Huracan)?

Luzifer

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I've been searching so many hours, gathered many engine pictures from Huracans and R8 engines for sale to try and locate it but I was unsuccessful. Anyone know where it is?

This is what the sensor looks like.

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Sakura

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Should be very close to the flywheel located at the rear of engine or side that faces the firewall (last image). I think the last image has the view hidden because the sensor unit is on the right side of the flywheel (or left side of the engine or driver's side).
 

Luzifer

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Here's a few more pictures. Anyway last week I got a EPC light and intermittent engine light, then the engine started to misfire. My autel scanner only gave me one code whereas my other scanner gave me a few more codes with all cylinders on bank one misfiring and P0017 which was camshaft/crankshaft sensor Bank 1 position B. So it points to the driver's side near exhausts.

I spent an incredible amount of hours, something like over 6 hours trying to get to the camshaft sensor near the exhaust, first I had to put the coolant reservoir aside. the sensor was tucked behind a heat shield, all the screws at a weird angle and I couldn't see the screws to remove the heat shield. You can't remove the entire heat shield as you need to pull the engine! All in all I spent 8-10 hours lying on the rear fender to replace it. It didn't solve the issue.

I found a video online and the guys found a similar problem with an R8 and after replacing 4x camshaft and crank sensors (1 or 2x ??) didn't help so they replaced all x4 VVT (Variable Valve Timing Solenoid). I was finally able to take one VVT out after 4-5 hours. I couldn't see and put the torx bit in the screw. I had to use my phone to try to position the bit. WHAT A NIGHTMARE! I tested the solenoid and the resistance is too low so I ordered some inexpensive chinese VVT and also a good aftermarket VVT. I should get them this week. I hope it solves my issue because the other 3VVT are even harder to reach and I'll have to remove the throttle body(ies) and maybe the entire air plenum.


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Sakura

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Whoah! I didn't know you were trying to replace almost all the sensors. That is a tough work even for experienced mechanic.

Looks like the crankshaft sensors are placed on the right side of the engine, just like the V12. I am sure replacing both VVT and crankshaft is best since they are related with timing.

I recommend buying an angle camera (looks a cable with small camera like borescope) so you can do the work more easily. They are quite inexpensive.
 

Luzifer

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I tried my medium sized camera that I use for my job but it's not adequate, I just can't find my smaller one!
 

Luzifer

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I found it! found someone on the other forum who let me download some R8 manuals. I painstakingly looked through. They call it an engine speed sensor. Thank goodness the diagram shows the same quadrilateral stamp of the sensor so I recognized it from aftermarket parts. No wonder I couldn't find it on the engine because it's in the bellhousing of the gearbox/transmission! It's right at the flywheel on the left side.

I'll have to remove the panels under the car again and it's right by the plastic gearbox pan.

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Circled in orange from my picture archive.

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Sakura

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Glad you have it sorted out! Do these require replacement at certain time? I don't remember I've ever had it replaced. The dealer recommended sensors replacement but for O2. I delayed it till next year since I don't drive my car often.
 

Luzifer

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I noticed these exhausts have 4x O2 sensors and 2x exhaust gas temperature sensors in the same area.

I never heard that any car needs sensor replacement as a maintenance item. I don't have a solid answer if they need to be part of preventive maintenance. At the moment for me I would only change sensors and O2 sensors when they become faulty or notice the engine is not performing correctly.

I realized this car is not an ordinary car but a highly complex one compared to a regular car so maybe they are correct to replace them if you want peak performance?
If the O2 sensors are cheap and easy to replace maybe it's a good idea?

What I do now after a ride is to open the hood at home to let the engine cool off. I do not drive in the rain because I want the car to stay clean as much as possible and I noticed when I wash the car water gets a little bit on the engine and especially when I open the hood. I want the least amount of corrosion because it's a nightmare if bolts strip, components seize and break while trying to remove them.

From now on I will put towels on the engine when I wash the car.
 

Luzifer

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My quick search suggests $154(premium aftermarket) for one downstream O2 sensor. Or OEM at $322USD from Scuderia parts.

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Sakura

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$322 each for 4 O2 units plus labor, which means I’d be paying around $2200 if they include their $1000 labor charge. Sounds about right based on the quote I got. Pretty expensive, honestly.

A Porsche dealer replaced them once on my old Porsche 911 (991 version) and the car did ran more smoothly.
 

Luzifer

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IT'S ALIVE!!!

I went to pick up my screws at Audi and received the economy VVT this afternoon so I quickly tested the resistance on the new one only to realize my multimeter was giving false readings so I did the battery test to the old one and it was sticking... I found another multimeter and the old one had 6.9 ohms while the new one had 7.9 ohms.

I put it in, started the car, the EPC light went away and the rough idle too! I erased the codes and all is clear in the 3 modules except if you look into permanent codes, one code is still remains. I need to find how to erase permanent codes, but who knows if I can erase it because Lambo didn't fully abide to OBD standard in 2015.

Looks like I'll have a full set of new spare sensors plus a cheap VVT and a premium one on the way.

Unrelated to this I really need a ride to help air out my mind a little.
 

Sakura

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Congrats bro!! Really happy for you!

If it is the older OBD system, shouldn't the permanent code clear automatically after a few drive cycles? Like just driving it for a couple of days. Another way is to reflash, but if the issue is already fixed, you shouldn’t need to do that.

Speaking of clearing the mind, mine is already floating in the clouds because I won't see my car for the next 2 weeks. It's just sitting at the dealer since last 2 weeks, waiting for that majestic digital mirror to finally be installed this week. Meanwhile, I'm at my desk going full vroom vroom with a stapler.
 

Luzifer

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You deserve a like emoji, a sad emoji and a laugh emoji!

I'll see if the code clears up after a while.

It's sad when your favorite vehicle is broken down and you can't drive it. The worst feeling is when I don't know if I can fix it myself. I can't even trust or expect an independent mechanic to do these thing. Last time I brought my Corvette to have the diff replaced, I wasn't equipped for this huge job, the owner of the shop was going to put the wrong oil in the new diff. I luckily caught him before he did so.

My next problem is the leaking axle plate, I need to research if gaskets are available. I also have another common issue, a leaking oil pump shaft. That's another big job I'll have to address eventually, taking the oil pump out, draining the coolant just to replace a culprit O-ring!
 

Luzifer

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All was fine until 30 minutes later the EPC light turned on, it didn't misfire but I didn't have full power. I had my scanner with me. With the dwindling sun I went back home and I hurriedly swapped out the VVT with a new one, after a 3 minute drive it turned on again. These economy VVT might be junk or the new camshaft sensor is bad? The last image the scanner seems to point to a bad VVT, maybe it's the other VVT that I didn't swap out?

I'm only going to get a premium VVT next friday. I wonder if I should try a new cam sensor I'm getting in the mail tomorrow.


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Luzifer

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I was enjoying my drive this evening clearing my head but it was short lived, 30 minutes in, the EPC light came on again. It didn't misfire like last time but I didn't have full power. I was taking it easy going back home, this Ferrari driver and his wife were following me wanting to play, what a bummer! At least I could see he had a huge grin on his face when he accelerated in the underpass.

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Sakura

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Yes, definitely swap them all with the factory ones: all VVTs and crankshaft sensor. Those cheap ones most likely can't handle it.
 

Luzifer

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The crank sensor I put in is Echlin/Napa brand which is supposed to be good.
 

Luzifer

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I went out to test the car again to see with a cold engine if the VVT I swapped would act the same. The throttle response was slow and sure enough after 30 minutes the lights went on. The good news the car is driveable, not prime or snappy, but similar to limp mode. While I wait for another one at least I'll be able to go to cars and coffee this weekend and keep my mind busy.

I flared a piece of copper tubing and made myself a guide which will make it a breeze to remove the screw that holds the thing in place otherwise 99% of the time the torx bit deviates to the side and you have no idea you're in the screw head while gouging it trying to remove it.

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Sakura

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I went out to test the car again to see with a cold engine if the VVT I swapped would act the same. The throttle response was slow and sure enough after 30 minutes the lights went on. The good news the car is driveable, not prime or snappy, but similar to limp mode. While I wait for another one at least I'll be able to go to cars and coffee this weekend and keep my mind busy.

I flared a piece of copper tubing and made myself a guide which will make it a breeze to remove the screw that holds the thing in place otherwise 99% of the time the torx bit deviates to the side and you have no idea you're in the screw head gouging it trying to unscrew it.

That is genius, you've earned MacGyver as your middle name :)

I mean, there is an extension like that sold elsewhere, but making one from a copper tubing is a whole new expertise level LOL
 

Luzifer

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Yeah those screw guides, I just don't know if it would fit this exact size.
 
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